Amidst the modern concrete of Marine Messe and the bustle of international cruise liners stands a silent, towering abstract form. “Nanotsu Okan” is not merely a sculpture; it is a 15-meter scar and a beacon—a vivid, vermilion cry against the azure sky that marks Hakata Port as the landing ground for 1.39 million souls who returned from the ashes of World War II.
Unveiling the Essence: A Monument to 1.39 Million Lives
To walk the wharves of Hakata is to walk upon layers of history. While today it serves as a gateway for tourists, in 1945, it was the “Port of Repatriation.” Nanotsu Okan (The Road to Nanotsu) was erected in 1996 (Heisei 8) to ensure this memory never fades.
Designed by the world-renowned sculptor Tomonori Toyofuku (a Kurume native), the monument’s name is a poetic nod to antiquity:
- “Nanotsu”: The ancient, lyrical name for Hakata Port, used when it was the primary gateway to the continent in the 7th century.
- “Okan”: Meaning “comings and goings” or a “thoroughfare,” symbolizing the tragic yet hopeful traffic of soldiers leaving for war and refugees returning to their homeland.
Your Insider Odyssey: The Geometry of Hope
The Abstract Narrative
Unlike literal statues of soldiers or ships, Toyofuku chose abstraction to convey raw emotion. The structure is a study in stark contrasts:
- The Base (Black): A heavy, dark foundation representing the “Ship” and the somber weight of history—the arduous journey across the sea.
- The Apex (Vermilion): Resting upon the black mass is a fluid, striking red form. This represents “The Human.” The color is not accidental; it is the color of life, blood, and the sunrise—symbolizing the “Hope for Life” that surged through the repatriates as they stepped onto Japanese soil after years of despair.
The Northwest Gaze
The monument is not placed randomly. Its sharp, angular prow faces Northwest—toward the Korean Peninsula and Mainland China. It eternally gazes back at the routes (such as Busan and Huludao) from which the repatriation ships arrived, serving as a spiritual lighthouse for those who returned and a requiem for those who did not.
Elite Navigator’s Codex: Strategic Reflection
- The “Marine Messe” Interlude:
- Context: Most visitors only see this while queuing for concerts at the adjacent Marine Messe Fukuoka.
- Strategy: Step out of the queue. The monument sits on the quiet seaside promenade (West Wharf) just a minute from the arena entrance. It offers a profound silence in contrast to the pre-concert noise.
- Photographic Contrast:
- Best Time: Late afternoon. The vermilion steel glows intensely against the deep blue of Hakata Bay. Frame the shot so the “Red Human” shape cuts against the open sky to capture Toyofuku’s intent of “rising hope.”
- The Educational Anchor:
- Detail: Do not miss the explanatory plaque at the base. It details the repatriation routes and statistics, grounding the abstract art in sobering historical fact.
Kyushu Codex: Instant Insights
| Aspect | Details | Expert Reference Tip |
| Artist | Tomonori Toyofuku (1925–2019) | A master of abstract sculpture; look for his signature “hole” motifs in other works. |
| Dimensions | Height: 15m / Length: 17m | Its horizontal length (17m) emphasizes the “Ship” motif. |
| Symbolism | Black = Ship/History; Red = Life/Hope | The red is specifically “Vermilion” (Shu-iro), an ancient protective color in Japan. |
| Orientation | Facing Northwest | Looking toward the continent (China/Korea). |
| Location | West side of Marine Messe Fukuoka | An easy 1-minute walk from the “Marine Messe Mae” bus stop. |
FAQ Nexus: Essential Knowledge for the Traveler
What is the “Nanotsu Okan” monument?
It is a large-scale public art piece and memorial at Hakata Port dedicated to the 1.39 million Japanese nationals who repatriated (returned) to Japan through this port after World War II.
Why is the monument red and black?
The colors are symbolic. The black base represents the repatriation ships and the heavy weight of the historical experience. The red (vermilion) top represents “humans” and the “hope for life” rising from the despair of defeat.
Who created the monument?
It was created by Tomonori Toyofuku (1925–2019), a celebrated Japanese sculptor known for his abstract modern works, often featuring wood and perforated surfaces.
Where exactly is it located?
It is located at 7 Okihamamachi, Hakata Ward, on the wharf immediately to the west (sea side) of the Marine Messe Fukuoka convention center.
Is there an admission fee?
No, it is a public monument located in an open park area, accessible 24 hours a day for free.
What does “Nanotsu” mean?
“Nanotsu” is the ancient historical name for the port of Hakata, used in the Nara and Heian periods, signifying its long history as a gateway to Asia.
Coda: The Vermilion Horizon
The Nanotsu Okan is more than a backdrop for concert-goers; it is the anchor of modern Hakata’s identity. As you stand beneath its looming red arch, looking out toward the Genkai Sea, you stand in the footprints of millions who once wept with relief at this very view. It is a place to pause, breathe the salt air, and acknowledge the fragile, beautiful weight of peace.