In the maze of earthen walls that makes up the castle town of Chofu, one alleyway stands out for its cinematic beauty: Furue-koji. And at the heart of this alley stands the “Kan-ke Nagayamon,” a massive gate that once guarded the home of the domain’s most intellectual family.
For the traveler in December 2025, this is the quintessential “Instagram spot” of Shimonoseki. The winter sun casts long, dramatic shadows against the yellow earthen walls, creating a high-contrast scene that feels like a period drama set.
🏯 Unveiling the Essence: The Doctor & The Tutor
Why is this gate so grand? It reflects the high status of the family who lived here.
- The Kan (Sugawara) Family: They were not just samurai; they were the Domain Doctors and Tutors (Jiko). They were entrusted with the health of the Lord and the education of his children.
- The Prestige: Because they excelled in both medicine and academia, they were granted a residence that rivaled high-ranking military retainers. The gate itself—a Nagayamon—contains rooms for servants and guards, a privilege reserved for upper-class families.
📸 Your Insider Odyssey: The “Furue-koji” Aesthetic
The gate does not exist in isolation; it is part of the best preserved streetscape in Chofu.
The Gate Architecture
- The Roof: It features Hon-gawara (formal tiling), a symbol of status and permanence.
- The Structure: The dark, weathered wood of the gate provides a striking contrast to the surrounding greenery and walls. It preserves its original form almost perfectly.
The Alleyway (Furue-koji)
- The Walls: The gate is flanked by distinctive yellow earthen walls (Dobei).
- The Photo: Stand back in the alley. Frame the shot so the yellow walls lead the eye toward the dark, heavy roof of the Kan-ke Gate. In December, the deciduous trees may be bare, revealing the sharp architectural lines of the roof against the blue winter sky.
💎 The Elite Navigator’s Codex: Strategic Insights
- Exterior Only: Please note that this is a private residence or preserved exterior site. Unlike the “Mori Residence” nearby, you generally cannot enter the house. The experience is about the architecture of the gate and the atmosphere of the street.
- The Walking Loop:
- Start at Samurai Residence Longhouse (Previous guide).
- Walk along the Dangugawa River.
- Turn into Furue-koji to see the Kan-ke Nagayamon.
- End at the Chofu Mori Residence for a garden tour.
- Silence: This is a residential area. While it looks like a movie set, real people live here. Keep voices down, especially in the quiet winter air.
📊 Kyushu Codex: Instant Insights
| Aspect | Details | Expert Reference Tip |
| Spot Name | Kan-ke Nagayamon | Sugawara Family Gate |
| Location | Furue-koji, Chofu | The most scenic alley |
| Family Role | Domain Doctors / Tutors | High-status intellectuals |
| Architecture | Nagayamon Style | Gate with servant rooms |
| Admission | Exterior Viewing Only | View from the street |
| Access | Bus to “Jokamachi-Chofu” | 10 min walk |
| Best Photo | Gate + Earthen Walls | Classic “Castle Town” shot |
❓ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I go inside the gate?
A: generally, no. It is a preserved heritage site often viewed from the outside. The main attraction is the majestic exterior and how it harmonizes with the earthen walls of the alley.
Q: What is a “Nagayamon”?
A: A “Nagayamon” is a type of gate where the gatehouse extends sideways to form a “long house” (nagaya). These side rooms were used as living quarters for gatekeepers, servants, or sometimes as stables. It was a status symbol for wealthy samurai families.
Q: Is it wheelchair accessible?
A: The street (Furue-koji) is paved but can be narrow. The view of the gate is from the street level, so it is accessible, but be aware that the Chofu area has some gentle slopes.
🌟 Synthesis
The Kan-ke Nagayamon is the anchor of Chofu’s visual identity. It reminds us that in the Edo period, the power of the pen (and medicine) commanded as much respect as the sword.