Every year from May 2nd to 4th, the Dragon Palace gates of Akama Jingu in Shimonoseki open for a spectacle of breathtaking beauty and profound sorrow. The “Sentei-sai” (Festival of the Late Emperor) is a living history scroll, recreating the tragic romance of the Heike clan and offering prayers to the spirit of the child Emperor Antoku.
Whether you are a photographer chasing the perfect shot of traditional Japan or a history buff fascinated by the Samurai era, this festival offers a glimpse into the 12th-century imperial court that vanished into the waves of the Kanmon Strait.
👘 Unveiling the Essence: The Tragedy of Dannoura
To understand the festival, one must understand the history beneath the waves.
- The Origin (1185): The festival commemorates the Battle of Dannoura, the final clash between the Genji and Heike clans. The Heike were defeated, and the 8-year-old Emperor Antoku was taken by his grandmother, Nii-no-Ama, who comforted him saying, “There is a capital city beneath the waves,” before jumping into the ocean.
- The Survival: Legend says the surviving court ladies (Joro) were forced to sell flowers and eventually became courtesans to survive, but they never forgot to visit the Emperor’s shrine on the anniversary of his death.
- The Ritual: This act of loyalty evolved into the Sentei-sai, where women dressed in magnificent Junihitoe (12-layered kimono) process to the shrine to pay their respects.
🌸 Your Insider Odyssey: The “Soto-hachimonji” Step
The absolute highlight of the three-day event is the Joro-sanpai (Courtesan Procession) held on May 3rd.
The Spectacle
Five high-ranking courtesans (Tayu), accompanied by child attendants and servants, walk across the Ten-i-bashi Bridge within the shrine grounds.
The “Soto-hachimonji” (Figure Eight)
Watch closely at their feet. Wearing heavy, black lacquered wooden clogs, the Tayu perform a unique walking step called Soto-hachimonji.
- The Movement: They sweep their foot outward in a circular motion, tracing the character for “eight” (八), before planting it down.
- The Grace: This slow, hypnotic movement, performed under the weight of a 30kg costume, is a display of immense skill and elegance. It is widely considered one of the most beautiful festival sights in Japan.
💎 The Elite Navigator’s Codex: Strategic Insights
- Fixed Dates: The festival is held on May 2, 3, and 4 every year, regardless of the day of the week.
- May 3 is the Peak: The main procession (Joro-sanpai) happens on the 3rd. This is the day you must be there if you want to see the courtesans.
- Arrive Early: Akama Jingu is compact. To get a front-row spot near the bridge for the procession, photographers often arrive early in the morning.
- Access: During the festival (which coincides with Golden Week), traffic in Shimonoseki is heavy. Do not drive. Take a bus from JR Shimonoseki Station to “Akama Jingu-mae.”
📊 Festival Codex: Instant Insights
| Aspect | Details | Expert Reference Tip |
| Festival Name | Sentei-sai | Memorial for Emperor Antoku |
| Location | Akama Jingu | Shimonoseki City |
| Dates | May 2 – 4 (Annually) | May 3 is the main day |
| Key Event | Joro-sanpai | Courtesan Procession |
| Key Visual | Soto-hachimonji | Unique walking style |
| Atmosphere | Solemn & Gorgeous | “Heike Dynasty Scroll” |
| Access | Bus to “Akama Jingu-mae” | 10 mins from JR Station |
❓ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Is the festival free to watch?
A: Yes, viewing the procession within the shrine grounds is generally free. However, it is extremely crowded.
Q: What happens if it rains?
A: If it rains on May 3rd, the procession across the open-air bridge may be cancelled or moved to sheltered corridors/halls within the shrine complex. Check local announcements on the day.
Q: Can I see the parade outside the shrine?
A: Yes, part of the procession (the Shimonoseki Kaikyo Matsuri parade) moves through the city streets from the Karato area to the shrine, but the specific “Soto-hachimonji” ritual is performed inside the shrine.
🌟 Synthesis
The Sentei-sai is a poignant reminder that even in tragedy, there is beauty. As the Tayu steps slowly across the red bridge, the gap between the 12th century and the present day vanishes, leaving only the memory of a young Emperor and the loyalty of those who loved him.