Chikuraku: A Symphony of 20,000 Bamboo Lights in the Castle Town of Taketa

Step into a living woodblock print where the “Little Kyoto of Kyushu” is illuminated not by electricity, but by the soulful, flickering glow of 20,000 bamboo candles.

The Moon, The Ruins, and The Light

In the mountainous heart of Oita Prefecture lies Taketa, a castle town that feels suspended in the Edo period. For three nights in November, this historic enclave transcends time during “Chikuraku.” It is not merely a festival; it is a requiem for the past and a prayer for the future, where the melancholic beauty of Rentaro Taki’s “Moon over the Ruined Castle” meets the warm embrace of bamboo light.

For the global traveler weary of over-tourism, Chikuraku offers a profound alternative: a “Silent Festival.” There are no raucous parades or neon lights. Instead, the town is enveloped in a “yugen” (profound grace) atmosphere, where the only illumination comes from chiku-tourou (bamboo lanterns) carved by local hands. This is a visual soundscape where the light has a rhythm, breathing life into the stone walls, samurai residences, and ancient temples of the Oka Domain.

Your Insider Odyssey: A Pilgrim’s Path of Light

The topography of Taketa—valleys, cliffs, and tunnels—makes this illumination unique in Japan. The lights are not just on the ground; they climb stairs, line rivers, and fill caves.

The Sixteen Rakan: Guardians of the Glow

The visual crescendo of the festival is undoubtedly the Sixteen Rakan (Juroku Rakan). These moss-covered stone statues, carved into the cliffside, are illuminated by a sea of bamboo candles at their feet. The contrast between the stoic, eternal stone faces and the dancing, ephemeral flames creates a scene of haunting beauty, often cited by photographers as one of Kyushu’s most mystical sights.

The Stairway to the Stars: Hirose Shrine

Prepare for a vertical ascent at Hirose Shrine. Here, hundreds of lanterns line the steep stone steps leading up the hillside. From the bottom, it appears as a “Stairway to Heaven,” a river of fire flowing upwards into the darkness. Walking this path is a meditative act, with each step bringing you closer to the solemn quiet of the shrine at the summit.

The Melody of Light: The Rentaro Taki Tunnel

Taketa is the home of Rentaro Taki, Japan’s Schubert. The “Rentaro Tunnel” uses sensors to play his compositions as you walk through. During Chikuraku, the tunnel is lined with lanterns, creating a sensory synthesis where the melancholic melody of Kojo no Tsuki (The Moon over the Ruined Castle) seems to emanate from the light itself.

Elite Navigator’s Codex: Tactics for the Discerning

• The Golden Route: Start at Bungo-Taketa Station at 16:30. As twilight fades, head immediately to the Sixteen Rakan before the crowds peak. Then, meander through the Samurai Residence District (Bukeyashiki) where the lanterns reflect beautifully against the white plaster walls.
• Gastronomic Strategy: Do not eat dinner beforehand. The festival features a “Yatai Village” offering Oita’s soul food. Look for Toriten (Oita-style tempura chicken) and Saffron Rice (Taketa is Japan’s top producer of culinary saffron).
• The Volunteer Connection: This event is powered by the “Satoyama Preservation Bamboo Utilization Hyakunin-kai.” The bamboo used is harvested to save local forests from overgrowth. Participating in the lantern lighting (often open to visitors in the early evening) is a direct contribution to Japan’s environmental sustainability.

Kyushu Codex: Instant Insights

FAQ Nexus: Navigating the Details

Q1: Is there an admission fee?

The festival itself is free to explore. However, donations are encouraged to support the bamboo forestry work. Some specific historical buildings may have small entry fees.

Q2: How do I get there from Fukuoka/Hakata?

Take the Shinkansen to Kumamoto Station, then transfer to the Hohi Main Line (limited express or local) to Bungo-Taketa. Alternatively, take the Limited Express “Sonic” to Oita Station and transfer to the Hohi Line. The train journey through the Aso caldera region is scenic in itself.

Q3: Is it wheelchair accessible?

Taketa is a castle town with slopes, stone steps, and uneven terrain. While the main streets are paved and accessible, key highlights like the Hirose Shrine steps or the approach to the Sixteen Rakan may be difficult for wheelchairs.

Q4: What should I wear?

November nights in the mountains of Oita are chilly (often dropping to 5-10°C). A warm coat, scarf, and gloves are essential. Comfortable walking shoes are mandatory due to the walking distance involved.

Q5: Can I fly a drone?

Drone flights are generally prohibited over the crowds and historical districts for safety and atmosphere preservation.

Coda: A Light That HealsIn a world that moves too fast, Chikuraku asks you to stop. It asks you to watch a single flame flicker in a bamboo tube and realize that thousands of others are doing the same. It is a festival of shared quietude, a reminder that the most beautiful things in life are often the most fragile. Visit Taketa, and let the bamboo light guide you back to yourself.